A symbol of the exotic and bohemian lifestyle, over the years “kaftan“, has become the general term for any loosely-fitting robe or tunic. It’s often used to describe several different types of clothes with Middle Eastern and North African origination (the abaya, djellaba, and burnouse, for example). An authentic kaftan is a cut, long, robe with full sleeves, with either an open neck that is completely open to the floor and occasionally buttoned. A huge, bulky garment with no sleeves, commonly known as the kaftan actually is close to the abaya.
Kaftan is a Persian word, and the fashion of wearing it is believed to have been developed in Ancient Mesopotamia. The Ottoman Sultans of the 14th to 18th centuries wore extravagantly decorated Kaftans. They were also awarded as prizes to important generals and dignitaries.
It can be constructed from almost any fabric; most are made of silk, cotton, or wool and are often bound with the help of a sash. Kaftans tend to be worn by women and men in various variations throughout all over the Iranian plateau, through North Africa, and into West Africa. They are typically worn in hot climates, the kaftan’s loose silhouette aids in proper air circulation, thus it reduces body temperature (though Russians have a similar style of clothing called a Kaftan comprised of fur).
When I was in Europe as well as North America, authentic kaftans were only worn by a select few travelers and eccentrics, who brought them home from exotic adventures in the fashion for Orientalism and Turkish interiors in the late 19th century. It was not until the 1950s and early 1960s that this style of dress began appearing in high fashion when it was adapted by French couturiers–including Christian Dior and Balenciaga–as a new form of a loose-fitting evening gown or a robe over matching trousers.
By the year 1966, Vogue described the kaftan as an essential garment for every member of the jet set and photographed “the beautiful people” in a variety of traditional imported designs and western versions “Here is the fastest enduring fashions ever invented The elegance of seraglio hangs on them; peace and tranquility emanating from these garments. The traditional robes of the Near East, they’re now being seen all over the world map, the result of great dressmakers and every woman’s newfound appreciation for beauty. …”
Reduced to a micro-mini length Tom Ford took the kaftan shape to the realm of the erotic to be worn by Gucci in the Spring of 1996. Fashion designers looking to bring their collections alive with the “oriental” touch and nostalgia for the 1960s rediscovered the versatility of this piece. Fashion designers like Temperley and Matthew Williamson have continually reanimated the Kaftan’s Bohemian mystery, and others such as Naeem Khan and Elie Saab have brought the kaftan to the red carpet, with intricately beaded and embroidered versions. The striking and graphic style of the kaftan has allowed designers to each put their unique design on it while keeping the same ease of comfortable and modesty that makes it so appealing to women around the world.